Day 10: Evolution Valley

Friday, August 17, 2012

Campground outside Muir Trail Ranch (mile 114.2) to North Evolution Lake (mile 130.1).

Today's miles: 15.9
Trip miles: 130.1

Woke up today at 7 am and decided to head over to the Ranch to check my email before hitting the trail. But before I could get going, a couple approached Chris and I and inquired about how to lighten their packs. We had a great conversation and shared tons of knowledge with the inquisitive couple.

Around 8:30 am I finally walked into the Ranch. Upon entering, Pat, the wonderful old lady who helped me yesterday, walked toward me and started shaking her finger at me.

Pat and I in front of the store @ Muir Trail Ranch

”I come in peace”, I said with a smile. Pat laughed and asked for my address. Strange, yes, but I told her anyway. She smiled and told me she grew up and went to school in Glendale, CA - my hometown. Small world!

On my way into the store to use the computer, I ran into Donna and Paul again. Donna asked me how my swimming lessons were going. They are really wonderful people and I hope they have a wonder-full and memorable trip.

Left to right: me, Donna and Paul

By the time I checked my email, chatted with other hikers, and foraged through the hiker buckets again for more goodies and sunglasses, it was 9:30 am. I quickly filled up my water bottles from the spring and left the Ranch. Unfortunately I didn't run into the wolfpack (the boys from Reno) to say hello.

The clouds had already gathered so I knew we were in for some foul weather today. Not on any other day had the clouds looked this threatening this early in the day.

My hike through Evolution Valley was beautiful and under cloud cover, making it very enjoyable. A few miles south of the Ranch, I came across a hut. It was the Muir Hut, built by the Sierra Club in John Muir's honor.

John Muir Trail Hut exterior

Hut interior

marvelous bridge crossing at Piute Pass Trail junction

Gorgeous Evolution Valley

awesome footbridge crossing over the San Joaquin River

Another beautiful footbridge - this one at the Goddard Canyon Trail junction

Beautiful Evolution Valley

Being a low snow year, Evolution Creek was only shin deep - an easy ford. In fact, it was easier than the ford required last night to get to the hot springs.

Evolution Creek

Around 1 pm, lightning struck, thunder blared, and the skies opened up. The shower lasted about an hour, but the dark storm clouds hung around and spat from time to time. All this rain does make for pretty waterfalls!

At McClure Meadow, I swung by and said hello to backcountry ranger Dave. Nice guy. Wonder what he does all day in that hut by himself. I would have inquired further and asked to check out the ranger station, but it was pouring rain and I wanted to keep moving.

About 2 miles from North Evolution Lake, I caught up to the wolfpack. They too plan to stay at North Evolution Lake tonight. After a set of steep switchbacks, we took a break at a creek. The smell of wild onions consumed the air. We were surrounded by wild onions here. Tyler picked a few and so did I.

Tyler picked wild onion from its root. Cool!

Look at all those tasty onions! 

I munched on one while I hiked, and I kept another one for dinner later. When we arrived at camp, I  diced the wild onions into my lentil soup. It was by far the best dinner I've had on the trail! The soup was outrageously good, and the onions made it that much better. My taste buds and tummy were very happy :))

Lentil Soup with veggies and wild onions - SO GOOD!

North Evoution Lake is absolutely beautiful and one my favorite lakes of this trip. The outlet of the lake drops off like an infinity pool into the canyon below. Spectacular views around every corner here. And the fishing isn't to shabby either. The guys caught a few golden trout after dinner.

Stunning North Evolution Lake

North Evolution Lake

Outlet of North Evolution Lake

Outlet of North Evolution Lake 2

Sunset however, was most spectacar. The alpenglow and the many shades of red and pink were amazing!

North Evolution Lake Aplenglow 

North Evolution Lake Aplenglow 2

North Evolution Lake Aplenglow 3

We stretched for a few minutes, stargazed for about a half hour around 9 pm and then it was off to bed.

The wolfpack in inverted pigeon

Another glorious day on the trail.
-----
“[It’s] wonderful how completely everything in wild nature fits into us, as if truly part and parent of us. The sun shines not on us, but in us. The rivers flow not passed, but through us, thrilling, tingling, vibrating every fiber and cell of the substance of our bodies, making them glide and sing.” ~John Muir

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Day 9: Spa Day at Muir Trail Ranch

Thursday, August 16, 2012

Marie Lake (mile 106.2) to Muir Trail Ranch (mile 114.2).

Today's miles: 8
Trip miles: 114.2

Soggy start to the day as it was very humid last night and I was camped out in the open (sans tree cover). There was lots of condensation inside my tent, and I was sliding to the right slightly (not the most level campsite I've ever chosen).

I slept in and got a later start as I knew I had fewer miles to cover today. I love nero days because I can let my laziness shine and hike even slower than I usually do.

I hit the trail around 7:30 am and enjoyed glorious views of Marie Lake, Heart Lake, and Sallie Keyes Lakes. As I was drying out my tent, sleeping bag, and air pad at Sallie Keyes, Jake rolled through. He was hauling it to Muir Trail Ranch to see about reserving a couple rooms as Colin and Tyler were both suffering with Achilles issues.

Beautiful Marie Lake

Heart Lake from Selden Pass

Sallie Keyes Lakes

another trailside used gear sale

Loooooong downhill to Muir Trail Ranch

We made good time to the Ranch, where our resupplies were also waiting for us.

They say about 1000 buckets are shipped to the Ranch each year!

Door to the bucket hut..which only international hikers get to sign 

The most important storage shed for a hiker! 

As we walked in, a sweet old lady took our claim checks and went about retrieving our resupply buckets.

I was REALLY hoping the store on the property would have apples for sale but unfortunately, they had no food for sale, just hiking related stuff.

The Muir Trail Ranch is a wonderful place with very friendly staff. They treated me very well and inquired about my trip. This stood out to me because with all the hikers that roll in, one might tire of inquiring about people's adventures, but not them. They really love the outdoors and it shows.

pack horse stalls at the ranch 

The store @ the Ranch

Ranch cabins and lounge in the distance

Next to the shed that houses the resupply buckets are many buckets full of food other hikers have left behind. We are free to go through them and take what we want. I looked for sunglasses but didn't find a pair. But, Tallulah, a fellow hiker who packed way too much food had just unloaded dehydrated apples and peaches. SCORE!!

hiker buckets full of free stuff

organizing my bearcan and trying to make it all fit

dehydrated apples have never tasted better!!

She, Will, John and Chris were great company and a fun group of people. We all foraged through the buckets, and found foodstuffs we craved, wanted and didn't know we wanted. I took 5 assorted organic tea bags and hemp seeds.

left to right: me, Tallulah, Will, Chris, John

I then tried to somehow fit my seven days worth of food into my bearproof food canister - something I wasn't able to accomplish at home before I shipped my food to the Ranch. With slight force and lovely words of encouragement, it all fit..eventually.

will it all fit?

you bet it will fit...one way or another

Fully loaded with 2.5 liters of water, 7 days of food and all my gear, my pack weighed in at 29 pounds. Not too shabby although in my opinion the scale at the ranch is slightly off. I think my pack weighs slightly more.

All the while we were fooling around with food matters, I was also charging my phone and camera.
Once they were charged, Chris - aka Rogue Photonic - and I were ready to leave the ranch property to find a place to camp. As we were walking out, I saw a woman who looked familiar to me. It was Donna from Australia hiking the JMT with her partner Paul. It was great to meet her in person as we'd been following each others' journies on trailjournals.com. Hope they have a great hike!

Chris and I finally left the ranch and after 10 minutes of walking, we had our gear down, and tents were doing up. Fifteen minutes later we were on our way to Blaney Hot Springs. Oh how refreshing, soothing and relaxing the clothing optional hot spring was.

crossing the river to get to the hot springs...longest ford of any river on the trip!

There were a few people enjoying themselves when we got there, but they left soon after and we had the place to ourselves. Shortly after, Elizabeth and Veronica joined us, great gals out hiking the Sierras for a week.

hangin out at clothing optional Blaney Hot Spring. thanks for taking the pic Veronica

After a great long soak and great conversation with wonderful people, we all headed back to camp for dinner. Chris and I got a fire going and were joined by a fun family of three camping nearby whose previous longest backpacking trip was 3 nights. Rock on! The retired couple - previously employed by the U.S. Air Force - were hiking the JMT with their son, who was in charge of filtering all their water and documenting their trip with a DSLR camera. Great people.

After they left, Chris and I chatted more about his 141 day trip, of which he is on day 74. Rock on Chris!

It's waaay passed hiker midnight and I'm pooped. Great day at the ranch, but I'm ready to stretch my legs tomorrow.
----
”Wander a whole summer if you can. Time will not be taken from the sum of life. Instead of shortening, it will definitely lengthen it & make you truly immortal.” ~John Muir

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